By Diane Kron
SKILL LEVEL: Intermediate
Wrap dresses are classic, sophisticated and appropriate for any occasion. Make yours using the Baby Lock Triumph Serger! This garment will be an elegant addition to any wardrobe and you’ll want to make one in every color! Download printable instructions.
- McCall’s® pattern #M6884 View A
- Quatrefoil navy knit fabric from Riley Blake®
- Madeira Serging thread to match fabric
- Clear Foot for sewing hems
- Stretch needles for knits size 11
- Basic sewing supplies
- Baby Lock Triumph Serger
- Follow the guide sheet from the pattern to layout and cut out the pattern pieces for your desired size.
- Set up the Serger for a 4-Thread Overlock for the seaming on the dress. Use the following settings for all seams on the dress.
- Insert the needles in 01 and 02.
- Set the width to 7.5.
- Set the Length to 3.0.
- Stitch Selector A.
- Place the Wave Selector to Overlock.
- Blade in the up position.
- Upper Looper Selector in the Up position.
- Thread the machine using the new Threader.
- To sew a 5/8” seam allowance, line the right edge of the fabric up so that the blade cuts a slim edge away on the fabric.
- The left needle will sew a 5/8” seam from the right side of the fabric.
- For sewing the hems on the dress use the following settings for a Cover Stitch. (Sleeves, neckline, and bottom hem of dress)
- Place the needles in C1 and C3.
- Select a length of 3.0.
- Set the Chain Needle Tension at 5.
- Set the Chain Looper Tension to Cover.
- Set the Upper Looper Selector to Down.
- Place the Blade Position to Lock. (Down position)
- Replace with the Sewing Table.
- Thread the machine using the Madeira Serger thread.
- Fold the fabric’s hem to the wrong side and press the hem with an iron.
- Disengage the upper looper and the knife. When seaming the cover stitch, the fabric will not be cut, so the knife is not necessary.
- Ensure that two cover stitch stretch needles are installed. Remove any other needles from the serger. A cover stitch can use either two or three needles.
- Check your serger’s manual if you are not sure which needles are for the cover stitch.
- Chaining off is not possible with a cover stitch, so the first stitch must begin with the fabric under the needle. Place the fabric under the presser foot.
- Stitch slowly across the hem. Stop sewing when you reach the end of the hem. Use the Clear Serger foot to make it easier to see the starting point on the stitched hem.
- Using tweezers, pull up threads towards the front of the machine away from the two needles (about 8”).( Slide tweezers under the presser foot grabbing the two threads).
- Gently remove the garment from the serger.
- The two upper threads will be pulled to the back side of the garment. Tie the threads together to secure the hem.
- Repeat for the other hems on the dress.